Jeita and Byblos

Jeita Grotto is stunning - a cave system comprising an upper cavern astonishing in its rock formations, from stalagmites and stalactites to organ pipes, coral-like and mushroom-like formations to works of natural art undefinable. Despite the theme-park vibe of the place (mini trains, mini zoo, etc) outside the caves, the inside was tastefully lit in an understated way. The lower grotto contains a river and a short boat ride through its peaceful interior showed more of the same, but with the magical atmosphere that calm water provides. Both caverns had me gaping in wonder - this was a breathtaking glimpse of what is only a fraction of the whole cave system.

I'd joined a day trip from Beirut, and from Jeita our minibus continued to Jounieh, a sprawling coastal town, no longer even separated from Beirut. Above the town we stopped at Harissa, one of a number of Christian monuments in the area, which stood high above the town and offered awesome views. We returned to sea level by means of the telepherique - a little cable-car-gondola ride which chugged steeply downhill, finishing by a run in to the station travelling between blocks of flats.The Lonely Planet tagged this as a terripherique, so I was disappointed to find it chugging in a sedate manner, despite its slightly aged appearance.

Next stop was Byblos, site of a series of ruins from neolithic through roman to a crusader castle. Parts of the archaeological site were pretty impressive and the setting was stunning, with the pretty harbour, souk and old church all giving the place a very appealing, if touristy air. We stopped in at the tiny fish fossil museum, where some amazing fossils were on display and an assistant sat splitting rocks and letting dead fish taste fresh air for the first time in a million years. Apparently these fossils are unique in the middle east - I forget the details. I would definitely have liked to spend longer in Byblos - somewhere I could happily have dawdled.

Our day trip ended with lunch at a beach resort just north of Byblos - a pebbly beach getting a lot of use on this unexpected public holiday, the Mediterranean a stunning shade of turquoise in the sun. I went for a paddle and would officially rate the water as 'refreshing'.