Nikko Highlands

A perfect day. Idyllic hiking in stunning mountains under a bright blue sky. I am still glowing with the pleasure of it all.

Took the bus up the winding pass to Akechi-daira, where I caught a short cable car ride up then began a fairly stiff climb through the woods. An hour later I stood atop a hill looking down at Lake Chuzenji shimmering far below, surrounded by hills with little wisps of cloud clinging to their summits. I sat and gazed, awe-struck, as I munched on the first mystery rice ball of the day, before beginning the long descent. The route was fairly clear, though with signs all in Japanese I had to be fairly careful whenever the path split.

After a quick milk-shake break at Chuzenji-ko, I hopped back on the bus and rode up to Ryuzu falls. A long flight of steps followed the falls which cascaded down over a long series of small drops. From the top another hiking trail led off through the woods, first following the river then across marsh land where the views opened up again and each turn gave another reason to draw a deep breath and reach for the camera. Meeting the Yugawa river again, I continued, somewhat plagued by enormous parties of schoolchildren enjoying the flat boardwalk route and putting paid to any idea I had of stripping off and leaping into a refreshing bit river. Further on the path passed more waterfalls and finally another big drop, Yu-daki falls, before topping out at Yumoto Lake where a sulphorous perfume wafted on the breeze - the local hot springs very much in evidence. The path round the lake made for a pleasant stroll, bringing me to the tiny village of Yumoto Onsen. I couldn't find an obviously open-to-the-public onsen to bathe away any hiking aches, but I did find the hot springs source, where hot water bubbled up through the mud. And then I chanced upon a public footbath where I sat and bathed my feet and hoped that the hot water might prevent my calves from seizing up again. Slipping my socks and shoes back on I walked away with my feet positively glowing and pulsating happy-waves. And I have to say that so far I have no aches from today's hiking - a total of about five hours - though whether this is due to the restorative hot waters or the fact that I am finally getting those muscles used to working again, I can't say.

This area above Nikko is breathtakingly beautiful. The hiking trails are enough to set me to thinking that I wouldn't mind living in Tokyo, knowing that all this is only a couple of hours away. And I would dearly love another day or two here to do some more hiking. What else can I say? Nikko, and its highlands, is the absolute highlight of this trip so far.