Cairo Donkey Sanctuary

I was really impressed by Dr Mourad, who runs the Cairo Donkey Sanctuary Mobile Clinic. He was totally committed, enthusiastic and professional in every way. He dispensed treatment without ever seeming to judge those whose donkeys had been badly cared for; he gave advice, asked them to come back next week, but never told them off. For somebody who cared so much about his work, it could have been hard to resist preaching and haranguing, but his approach is perfect. People aren’t scared to come, they return, they learn. A modest smile touched his face when he told us, on questioning, of the success of the sanctuary; it seemed more that he was proud of the project, not of himself.

In a backstreet beside the pyramids at Giza four vets worked out of the back of a van, offering free treatment to anyone who brought their donkey along. There were dozens of donkeys suffering from a fly-borne eye complaint which necessitated rinsing by syringing water up the nostrils to flush out the eyes. This seemed to be a slightly uncomfortable treatment, requiring two men to hold the donkey’s head still while a third inserted the tube and did the syringing. After a bit more cleaning and some eye-drops they were sent on their way wearing fly-masks to prevent reinfection.

We saw a number of donkeys with raw open sores from the ropes and chains of home-made harnesses and bridles. These wounds crawled with flies and looked as if they had been there a long time. The fifth member of the sanctuary team is a bridle maker who will exchange all the dodgy ropes and bits of chain for well-made harnesses. With all this care being offered for free, there has been a great improvement in the health of donkeys in the area. Still, we were told that some owners wouldn’t bring their donkeys because it was wasting time that they could be using to make money, especially if they were giving pyramid rides to tourists.

On another donkey we were shown a healed wound, where a rope across the nose had rubbed right through the flesh, making an extra pair of nostrils. It’s alarming to think that a wound could be allowed to go so far, but to these people they are working animals and there’s none of our soppy attitude to animals. Dr Mourad told us about the education programme he runs and how it really seems to be making a difference, often starting with children who go on to educate their families. He preaches donkey training with love so there is never a need to beat the animal because it will go willingly and respond to verbal commands, and of course the simple message that looking after it might actually mean it lives longer and is stronger. Obvious to us, maybe, but a new philosophy to many. It was good to hear him say how much things are changing, although he cannot hope to reach all areas. It was lovely to see one young boy tell another one off for hitting his donkey, showing that the message is getting through. And the working space they use at Giza each Sunday belongs to a riding stables who will dismiss any staff who beat an animal.

I’m not averse to the odd donkey, but it would be a lie to say that I’ve always harboured a great love for them. But I know good work when I see it and of course I just love to experience these behind-the-scenes aspects of life, every day life away from the tourist trail. Of course, Kate was dying to stick her arm up some donkey’s backside, but they managed to hold her back. This time.