Langtang Valley Trek

Day 1: Syabru Bensi to Lama Hotel (2650m)

Set off with Govinda, across the cable bridge and up the valley, following the icy blue-grey Langtang river the whole way. Today we gained about 1000m in altitude, but I'm sure we ascended at least twice that as the path rose and fell, rose and fell, all morning, climbing over each fold of the valley only to return to the river. The trail was through woodland, with almost constant river views and conveniently punctuated by teahouses. Sat in one built out over the river and watched the slow process of getting cows across the river.

After a hearty dhal bhat lunch we climbed steeply, almost constantly. Often this meant huge stone steps and resulted in the rapid shedding of layers of clothing and occasional stops at the little lodges perched over the river.

The lodge at Lama Hotel was basic but cosy and welcoming. More dhal bhat. More tea.

Day 2: Lama Hotel to Langtang (3451m)

The trees thinned out, then disappeared, leaving shrubs, mountain views and the odd yak. The river bagan to fall away further below us, its water clearer and bluer. A steady day's climb up to Langtang. Almost no other trekkers on the route, but a constant trickle of porters stoically carrying improbable loads on their backs, straps straining against their foreheads - timber, traditional baskets of who knows what, massive bundles, and even one man with a stack of 8ft by 4ft plywood. Just watching these men and women could make you tired and certainly made me more than willing to pay the prices which rose with altitude for the few things I bought during the trek (ie coke and loo paper).

An excellent garlicky dhal bhat. A cold night - woke at 3am to see temperature in bedroom was 1 degree.

Day 3: Langtang to Kanjin Gompa (3960m)

Thought about a quick wash before breakfast (ie splash on face) but the tap was frozen, the only sink being outside. Porridge by the kitchen fire seemed a better option.

A couple of steep climbs, but much of the day's walk was flattish, undulating. The scenery was awe-inspiring, snowy peaks, glaciers, craggy rock and barren moorland - quite magnificent. Although the sun blazed down and I was soon defrosted and hiking in a t-shirt, streams remained semi-frozen. We reached Kanjin Gompa in time for lunch (more dhal bhat), then I pottered off along the valley towards another glacier and iced-up stream that cut through the scree. Truly monumental views, momentous scenery that touches the soul.

Returning to the lodge, I met a couple of other trekkers - almost the first we've come across. It was good to chat before they headed off back down.

Another cold night - one of the people I met said his water had frozen in his room last night. So I filled my bottle with hot from the kitchen and kept it in my sleeping bag. A win-win situation, I'd say.

Day 4: Kanjin Gompa to Kanjin Ri (4590m) and down to Langtang

A stiff climb up to the ridge at Kanjin Ri, but worth every step - standing on the ridge looking out across the Langtang range, the peaks and glaciers, the icy wind ripping, the sun beating down - magnificent.

Back to Kanjin Gompa for lunch, tea and a rest before heading back down to Langtang. Still exhilarated and gasping with wonder at the scenery, but already feeling sorry that I was now on the way back. Stayed in a busy lodge in Langtang, for the first time, packed with other merry trekkers.

Day 5: Langtang to Lama Hotel

Clean socks never felt so good! An easy walk down to Lama, arriving early afternoon. Sat in the sun playing rummy with Govinda. Removed my hat for a couple of hours, for the first time in at least 48 hours - seemed to have developed matted dog hair. Fortunately I haven't seen a mirror for days. In the evening, sat by the fire playing rummy and drinking Nepali whisky. A very mellow day.

Day 6: Lama Hotel to Syabru Bensi

We covered the ground quickly, despite stopping for refreshment a few times. Hard on the knees, down down down. Nice to see places I remembered from on the way up, but after the barren days at altitude it still all looked interesting and maybe different seen from the other direction.

Arrived in the early afternoon and enjoyed a warm shower. Removed underwear and t-shirt for first time in a week. Dressed in clean clothes, I ran my hands through my hair over and over, wondering at the clean soft sensation. Ordered fried noodles for dinner, but Govinda insisted that this was only a snack - turned out to be enough for two people, but by then we had added 'snicker roll' to the order... Knocked socks off the famed Scottish fried Mars bar - this was a snickers wrapped in a generous blanket of doughnut and deep fried. And there were two of it! I spent the rest of the evening sharing beers with the wonderful Govinda who has been not only a great guide, but a good friend and companion all the way.

What a fabulous trek!

Now just the return bus journey to deal with...