Graskop

I've been spending a few days in Graskop, in Mpumalanga province. At somewhere over 1400 m altitude, the nights are cold, while the fierce sun and fresh air make the days very pleasant. If you are ever in this area, I can't recommend Valley View Backpackers enough. It rocks! ... in a quiet sort of a way.

The very amenable Dutch owner, Edwin, picked up from Nelspruit, stopped at scenic viewpoints on the way and made me feel very at home. Which was just as well as I was the only guest here that night - although two cats kept me company on and off as they jumped in through the dorm windows. I had time for a late lunch at the famous (and highly recommended) Harrie's pancakes, followed by a lazy evening.

The next day Edwin led me off on a mountain bike trail which showed me how unfit I've become. It was quite a nice trail and took in the delightful Forest Falls, where we downgraded from the proposed swim to a sit with our feet in the water. After visiting the higher but less scenic Mac-Mac Falls (named after the profusion of Scottish gold prospectors in the region) we got to a pub where I was invited to soak up some true South African culture - an afternoon of rugby and beer. We tried to avoid too much of the beer, although the free glasses of punch seemed to be somewhat compulsory, being thrust into your hand by a barman who expected you to empty the glass sharpish so that he could refill it for the next victim. Luckily the way back was not as hilly as the route there, or maybe the alcohol had numbed me to the pain.

I can now answer my own earlier question about South African men - they don't all look as if they're about to leap onto a rugby pitch - mostly they look like Australian beer-swilling blokes, or possibly British beer-bellied bar bores. Although they do seem to like wearing very short shorts. I obviously just got lucky! And I'm only talking physique here, not personality. But while I'm taking back previous thoughts - I will definitely take back what I said about South African accents - I rather like the sound. At least, men's accents. It doesn't seem to work so well at a higher pitch.

Today I took a gentle walk on the "Jock of the Bushveld" trail. This Jock appears to be some sort of a local Greyfriar's Bobby, though I don't think he sat around any graveyards. It was a nice stroll, through long grass and between lots of strangely-shaped rocky outcrops. From the top of the escarpment there were big but not very exciting views of miles and miles of forestery plantations. In the other direction were more appealing views of some rather Pentland-like hills, and beyond them in the haze layer after layer of hills faded from blue-black to white-blue as they receded. Of course there were also some dramatic views down from the occasional precipice, into the straight-sided gorge below.

This is a great spot and I reckon I might be back - so much more still to explore.