Lusaka

I like Lusaka. It's an unpretentious, easy-going place, where people are genuinely friendly. Walking on Cairo Road and the back-streets behind it, you can soak up a gentle form of African city life. There's nothing "Western" to be seen, save Barclays bank, no McDonalds even. Walls are hand-painted with advertisements for local products and services, pavements are wide sandy areas beside the streets and the traffic is quite civilized. I've enjoyed being squeezed into minibuses to get around, although the city is small enough to be easily walkable. Yesterday, while enjoying walking back to town from the Tanzanian embassy, I ignored all the toots and declined all the invitations to get in - each minibus has a conductor who's job it is to leap out at every pedestrian and persuade them to take the bus - especially as I knew I only had a 50,0000 kwacha note and the fare would be 2000, so I told one insistent guy that I had no money, whereupon he insisted I ride for free!

After the tourist-mecca of Livingstone, packed with high-adrenalin, high-dollar activities, and the beautiful South Luangua national park, it was goodto get a taste of everyday Zambia. There are few tourists here, just some travellers on their way to something else - there certainly is nothing for tourists to do in the city. In my three days here, nobody has tried to sell me a single tacky souvenir. And interestingly, despite Zambia still being one of Africa's poorer countries, I've seen only one beggar on the street. The gap between rich and poor seems less obvious here than in the other parts of Zambia I've seen, but I would be interested to see what conditions are like in other parts of the city. There are many aid organizations working here, mostly doing with HIV related work. Here in the city centre, the vibe is one of peaceful purposefulness rather than lethargy or desperation.

The Zambians are lovely people. I know it's a sweeping generalization, but I've met so many nice people. People who are interested in me, my home, my experience of Africa, and also keen to share their country with me, glad that I am here and eager to advise me on other places I should see. I've had many interesting political discussions - certainly makes a change from travelling in Asia and being expected to talk about football! Everyone seems open, warm and friendly. Maybe I've just been lucky, but I'd say that as "The warm heart of Africa," Zambia gives Malawi a run for its money - and more.