Sunday 9 August 2009

Unt (wherever that might be)


Woke to a bitter wind and dramatic sky, but no rain. The dirt roads were almost dry and the weather improved all day, until suddenly there was my Mongolian dream of hot sun, cool air and wide blue sky. The long day's drive was broken by stops to admire a roadside cairn, some yaks - god, what gorgeous beasts - and to laze around in a hillside meadow rampant with wildflowers and grasshoppers.

Leaving the road (we will not see another one for many days), we bounced along more rough tracks to reach tonight's ger camp, the sun still shining. Wandered through another pretty meadow, but didn't feel up to the hill so turned back to camp where I 'showered' under a trickle of scalding water and am sitting now in the last of the sun with a bottle of beer and my notebook.

Today I have seen grasslands rippling in the wind, huge herds of sheep, goats, yak, cattle and horses, herdsmen on horseback in traditional dress, miles of rolling green hills dotted with gers, and I am more than content. I can hear a few insects birds and horses and somewhere in the distance the faint clanging of a bell. It's past eight o'clock now and the shadows are growing long. It's impossible to imagine a place more peaceful, more wide and open.

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