Saturday 10 July 2010

Kyoto

I don't think I have ever before experienced such a feeling of being an alien. Separated by yawning chasms of culture and language, surrounded by a script that means nothing to me, it is easy imagine I have landed on another planet. A squeaky-clean one where traffic gives way to pedestrians, who in their turn wait patiently for the green man before crossing utterly deserted intersections. Manners are everything, paying for dinner or goods in a shop involves lengthy exchanges that far exceed the simple 'thank you / you're welcome' I've learned, reducing my detailed conversation to a series of idiotic smiles and nods. I walked past a row of ten ATMs, thinking they must be something else - where else does an ATM not look like an ATM?

There's nothing not to like about Kyoto. I've spent a pleasant day and a half wandering around (it's so pedestrian-friendly here!), taking in temples, old backstreets lined with souvenier and crafty shops housed in traditional wooden buildings, a shopping street selling nothing but tacky kitsch, eating sushi - of course - as well as black sesame and green tea ice cream and other more substantial treats. Kyoto station is more of a giant sculpture of glass and steel than a building - even in my jet-lagged, sleep-deprived state on arrival I couldn't miss its impressive architecture. And despite my doubts, getting myself on the right train from the airport to Kyoto was straightforward. Everything here smacks of efficiency, with the very pleasant twist of it all being administered with the ultimate in politeness. The airport was so efficient that I could have sworn only 4 people got off my flight - I never saw more than that number at passports, customs etc. Had a pleasant chat with the charming young man who searched my bag and asked about my itinerary. Grumpy officials everywhere could learn a thing or three here.

I have been in something of a daze since I got here, first from jet-lag, or so I thought, but I have been fighting off signs of migraine for two days now and energy is low. So I'll be heading for an early night - no karaoke for me!

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